Feel the Magic of Mexico City

La Ciudad de los Palacios – or CDMX, or the Capital, or simply Mexico.  All of which are appropriate, none reflect the immensity and incredible complexity and cultural depth of this City in the sky.  The third highest city on the planet with more than 5 million inhabitants, behind Bogata Columbia and Addis Ababa Ethiopia, coming in at 2,240 meters (7,350 feet above sea level). With a population of close to 9 million people in the city proper, the greater region holds over 23 million people. Currently the ninth largest city in the world, but back in the 1980’s CDMX was the fastest growing megacity in the western hemisphere, contending with Tokyo for the title of world’s most populated metropolitan area.

Founded on March 13,1325 as the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, alongside the 5 lakes of the region. Though the new city flourished, it was decided to drain the lakes to accommodate growth and the Mexico City you experience today, has been built on those dried up lake beds, with only a sliver surviving today (near the Benito Juarez International airport). There are officially 1,812 neighborhoods or colonias, here, more than you could ever explore in a lifetime. The more popular to stay in and explore are;

1.        Roma Norte – known for its culinary and hip vibe

2.        La Condesa – with a relaxed and sophisticated green vibe (incredible parks!)

3.        Colonia Centro – the historical heart including the ancient ruins of the Templo Mayor

4.        Polanco – the luxury district, with high end and exclusive vibe

5.        Juarez & Zona Rosa – an up-and-coming area with incredible architecture and diverse energy

Traffic here is no joke.  More intense than Bangkok, Paris or Los Angeles on any given day. It will take up to 2 hours or more to travel from the airport to your Colonia of choice.  Keep this in mind when arriving.  Yes, there is a subway and yes there are busses, but the walkways are a jumble of elements from concrete to stone with centuries of use, not the best environment for luggage, if even a carry on. My suggestion is uber or a private taxi – ask your accommodation for best options for your situation. Insider tip – everyone here uses Whatsapp.  If you book a taxi or a tour, they are going to be using this platform.  Have it downloaded and ready to use, before arrival.  Personally, I love to walk and typically log in 15-20k steps per day while visiting the city.

Remember too, red lights are merely a suggestion. Thankfully most roads within neighborhoods are small, one-way affairs, making crossing a bit easier, but always look, don’t dottle, and always use caution.

You will find incredible Michelin star restaurants adjacent to a guy with a taco stand – both equally tasty. Though the water here is fine to drink, it is not suggested due to the age of the infrastructure, which allows for too much standing time, allowing for microbes your intestinal track will not be happy to embrace. I have personally never had an issue here with stomach challenges, but I use caution and only eat at joints with a lot of other people, purchase fruit whole and then cut myself, and don’t get ice in drinks unless a nicer establishment (one who would most likely use bagged ice created in a microbe-less environment), same m.o. for salad greens.

You will also hear lots of Spanish of course, but also English (American, Canadian and British), French, Japanese, Korean, and more.  The cultural diversity is strong, with fantastic artwork, music, and literally every kind of food found around the globe. Museums are second to none and far too many to list (over 150!), but the Museo Nacionale de Antroplogia is the largest and most impressive, found in Chapultepec Park, which itself is a day trip of wonder and beauty.  The Frieda Kahlo Museum (heads up, buy tickets far in advance), Palacio de Belles Artes, National Art Museum, Museo Soumaya, and my favorite, Chapultepec Castle – offering 360 degree views across the city.

Parque Mexico, found in Condesa, has free weekend dance classes.  Rated from easy to difficult, arrive early to learn where to go for your comfort level, or simply stick around and watch.  Head to Parque Ecologico for a day of boat rides along the canals. For a longer day, the Pyramids of Teotihuacan are worth the trip, be sure to grab a bite at La Gruta, a restaurant open since 1906, built inside a cave.  Reservations are recommended. You can easily grab an uber to these locations, but there are also numerous tours available, ready to pick you up at your hotel.

There is so much more to this vibrant city, a short blog will not do justice.  Most folks come to Mexico for beaches and forget about the incredible history found in it’s middle. The climate here is much more appealing, with summer highs in the 70s with a refreshing drop in temps overnight into the 50’s.  Winters are only slightly cooler, with all seasons offering late afternoon rainstorms. Dressing in layers is ideal.  Learn a few words in Spanish before arriving, many also speak English and will be eager to practice on you, but I encourage trying your best to fit in with the language of choice. Google translate is your friend, but making an attempt will win over any and all encounters you have. 

A few random observations:

Dogs.  They are loved and cared for and allowed virtually everywhere.  Poop is not something commonly seen, unlike many streets of Paris and unlike the numerous stray dogs found in communities around the globe, in much of Mexico City, you will find them treated like family.  Most stores have water bowls out in front, and most restaurants allow them with you at the table.

Money.  Do not worry about arriving with pesos. Simply use your debit card at ATM’s found everywhere.  The exchange rate will be much better than what you will find at the airport.  Most locations, take credit cards.  On that note, the recent alliance of Capital One and Discover, does have some glitches here.  Uber for instance, will not recognize these cards.  Additionally, I found that Capital One can only be used at HSBC ATMs, the other national banks would not read the card. Keep this in mind when traveling.

Markets.  Seek out these random entrepreneurial jackpots.  Most are pop ups and can be difficult to source, but many times, a “cool” looking store, will open into a maze of stalls which go long into the depth of a building.  These are superb locations to find everything from locally sourced mezcal, to botanical infused face serum, to hand made toys and recycled clothing.

Maps.  Regardless of if you choose Google or Apple, neither will reflect what is actually on the block you are looking to explore.  Sometimes the information is correct, if the place is large or has been there for a very long time.  Mostly, the information is wrong or not fully flushed out.  Keep this in mind when seeking a particular item or location.  It is best to explore on foot and be open to flexibility for your desired outcome.

Doors. Incredible. Each and every one. I could spend months just taking photos of these incredible architectural masterpieces. Same for parks. They are abundant. Windows, entrys. Street art. Blocks upon blocks of eye candy. Walking allows for a much better opportunity to not only find adorable one of a kind shops and hidden market places, but also to get up close to this amazing city.

There are heaps of walking tours providing options to eat a variety of tacos or sample tequilas or get historical knowledge on one of the many neighborhoods. Knowing some Spanish will help you maneuver through this incredible city, but the locals are kind, patient and helpful everywhere you go, many are eager to try their english on you. Needles to say, regardless of which area you choose to hang your hat during your stay, you will have more than enough to keep you amused and enough steps to work off all the delectable foods you will consume. Remember to pack layers, mornings can be chilly at this altitude, and afternoon rains are common.

Have a wonderful adventure! I can't wait to hear what your favorites are!