Hidden gems of Southern Utah
- 3 days ago
- 8 min read
The BIG 5 – Canyonlands, Zion, Arches, Bryce, and Capital Reef, can be overwhelmingly large and overrun with a gazillion people, especially during high season. I offer an affordable and equally impressive adventure, without the crowds. Zion by far has the highest amount of annual visitation, due to its proximity to Las Vegas and ease of access to Salt Lake City. Next in line is Arches, located in SE Utah, and though about the same distance from the Utah capital as Zion, much farther from other urban centers. The latter is where we will be
spending time in this post. Within an hour of Zion, you have access to over 8,000 different room types, that same parameter for Arches only provides half that amount. This creates an explosion of rates for the closest and pretty much only community, of Moab during their high season, March to October. Arches also discontinued its reservation system this year, meaning your guaranteed entry at 10 am, is now you sitting in a long line, sometimes over hours long, to gain entry. Though at a 5,000 elevation, daytime temps can be well into the 90s, not a fun endeavor in your vehicle. Yes, I still recommend staying here, but only for a night or two, so you can gain access to the park first thing in the morning.
With that said, I recommend, at least for part of your adventure, staying at Bluff Dwellings Resort and Spa, in Bluff Utah. This teeny tiny, artsy community, is adorable, and located about a 2- hour drive from the chaos of Moab. You will not find any accommodation in or around Arches that is remotely comparable to the Dwellings, it is a destination in itself. I am not suggesting not exploring Arches, I am simply saying that there are other amazing locations, where parking and mobs of people and overpriced hotels, are not the case. Canyonlands is a perfect example, in that this massive park, has two main entrances, both quite a distance from Moab, making the Bluff option, seem not so far away.
Why is Dwellings such a fabulous spot? – the entire facility honors the local culture and climate of the region, while also providing jobs to local tribes’ people, as one of the largest employers of the area. Rooms are pristine, directly adjacent into the red rock walls, making this region a favorite. Fire pits, a pool, hot tub, on site restaurant, and actual Tee -Pees, you can spend the night in. This location provides proximity to Monument Valley, the tiny town of Mexican Hat, the Goosenecks, Valley of the Gods, and the Moki Dugway, all of which you will practically have on your own, providing incredible vista’s and Instagramable opportunities all day long. Bluff offers trading posts with authenticity, unlike many of the high tourist retail locations you will find in Moab. You will also encounter locally made jewelry and pottery in street stands, where you can have a conversation with the artist, unlike experiences at other high volume parks in the region.
Suggested itinerary for two nights stay:
Be sure to have a cooler with you, and pick up snacks, in Moab or Blanding. Gas up again in Blanding, as there will be limited options for the next 48 hours. Arrive for check in at 3pm. Spend the afternoon exploring the small locally curated store adjacent to Cow Canyon Coffee as well as Twin Rocks Trading Post, directly across the street, the Bluff Fort Historic Site, and the Sand Island River Walk, with exceptional wall art, spanning up to 3,000 years old. Be sure to stop in for a meal at Canyon Smokehouse for dinner, before heading back to your room for a quick change into your swimmers for a dip in the pool and long soak in the hot tub – perfect for star gazing.
Day two; Depart early. If you would like to be at Monument Valley for Sunrise, give yourself an hour prior. This allows for you to find a good parking spot, as this can be a popular spot, with only pull outs available. Remember too, though it can be warm during the day, nighttime temps can dip up to 40 degrees cooler. Wear layers. You will head south from Dwellings towards Mexican Hat, drive over the San Juan River, and continue for another 10 miles or so. This is the iconic view from Forest Gump. Keep your eyes open for wild horses. The actual Monument Valley Park is a handful of miles down the road from there, with a paid entry fee. This park can take a few hours to drive through, providing the same vistas as the one directly in front of you for free. If you have extra days or time, I recommend staying a night at Goulding’s Lodge, as well as booking a Navajo guided horseback tour of the area.
Next up, return the way you came, towards Mexican Hat. If you departed later in the day, or are staying at Gouldings, a meal at the Swinging Steak is a fun eating opportunity. If you need to refuel your cooler, stop in at the gas station for beverages and snacks. This will be your last option for many hours. As you head back north out of town, take a left turn onto highway 261. Soon after, take another left to view the Goosenecks. There is a small entry fee and toilets at this location, as well as picnic tables, this is the only spot offering a direct view point overlooking the wonky, fowl reminiscent curves, of the San Juan River.
Returning to the main road, turn left again, heading towards the massive wall of dark red earth, in front of you. Should you want to stretch your legs a bit longer, you will find an entry into Valley of the Gods to your right. Depending on the time of year, there could be wildflowers along the road as well as more wild horses. This is a 17 mile, unpaved loop road with towering sandstone bluffs, suitable for most cars in dry conditions, but recommend 4 x 4 after rain. There are some dispersed camping sites here, and no entry fee, should you like yet another overnight option. If you choose this detour, it will add another hour or more onto your journey.
Next up, the Moki Dugway, a 1,200-foot climb to Cedar Mesa, carved directly into a sheer cliff. Not for the light of stomach, and not suitable for larger vehicles or if towing a trailer. With a speed limit of 15 miles per hour, and most turns recommending a much slower crawl of 5 MPH. Avoid during rain or snow. There are a number of pull outs, uphill traffic has the right of way. This 11% grade is a thrilling encounter of scenic beauty. Once at the top, you can head into Muley Point which offers a stunning overlook of the San Juan River and Monument Valley.
Continuing on 261 to Natural Bridges National Monument. Another great loop road, this one is 9 miles long, providing incredible vistas into these natural phenomena. Lots of trails to experience as well as overlooks – depending on your level of adventure and the heat of the day. There is a toilet at the entry, as well as some pit toilets on the route. Plenty of picnic benches to simply take in the awe of this space, featuring the 13th largest natural bridge in the world. Off the beaten pathway of many, you will most likely have this park all to yourself, or with limited other parties.
Heading out of Natural Bridges, continue onto highway 95 towards Blanding. There are a few great vistas on this road as well, so be sure to be ready to pull off safely. This road will end at highway 191, where you will turn right, heading back towards Bluff, completing your long journey. Grab a pizza from the woodfired onsite restaurant and enjoy sitting around one of the many firepits to reminisce over your day while searching for planets overhead.
Final day check – out; recommending Cow Canyon Coffee for a morning beverage and delectable scone or other locally sourced treat, be sure to take a look at their great artwork as well! Head north back to Blanding, stopping in at the local grocery to restock your cooler with water and snacks and be sure to once again fill your tank. Soon you will have descended back onto the red rock plateau past Monticello. About 14 miles later, at the large beehive looking rock, there will be a left turn taking you into the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. This portion of the park is highly regarded for its deep rugged canyons, vibrant sandstone spires and miles of hiking trails, most of which are quite strenuous – be prepared.
Some of the more popular:
Slickrock Foot Trail – 2.4 miles
Cave Spring Trail - .6 miles
Druid Arch- 10.8 miles
Pothole Point - .6. miles
Upon completion of your Needles excursion, take the main road back to 191 and continue North towards Moab. Be sure to take a snap or hike up inside Wilson Arch, which will be on your right. Also just past the La Sal Junction turn off, you will find Hole N the Rock, a quirky roadside exhibit, including a 5,000 square foot, 14 room home, hand carved directly into the red cliffs. A fun way to end your day.
Arriving into Moab, head to your pre reserved room of choice, to be ready to head out at first light, or prior, into Arches National Park, whose entrance is only a mile or so out of town. The earlier you arrive the better, as the parking lots fill quickly, the sun gets too hot fast, and there is no parking on the sides of roads. I have a winter suggested itinerary located HERE, but you can use this guide during the other months as well. Just remember to bring lots of water, and dress appropriately. There is little to no shade, and there will be heaps of people looking to take that same Instagram shot.
Wanting to stay longer? A river trip would be a superb addition, book with Dwellings, and depart directly from Bluff. Longer still? ....add in some jaw dropping mountain scenery, for an extra few days added onto your loop. Take a right turn in Monticello onto highway 491, heading east towards Cortez. Then bear left onto184 to Dolores and follow this incredible drive up the San Juan range to Telluride (alternately, head across the Navajo Reservation from Dwellings, to Four Corners Monument, and then north to Cortez, should you like a photo op at this unusual location, about the same distance, either way - be sure to have a full tank and water before this side trip as there will be zero options once you leave Bluff). Be sure to stop in for a drink in the tiny community of Rico, at the Enterprise Bar & Grill. Then skip over Mountain Village, and instead stay in Telluride proper, taking the always free Gondola, up the mountain instead. In my most humble opinion, this is the most quintessentially adorable town, in America. Box canyon, waterfalls, lakes, rivers, stunning Winter, Spring, Summer or Fall, surrounded by 14,000 foot peaks, elk, deer, bear, and thousands of Aspen shimmering in the breeze.
Returning to Moab to complete your trip, depart town heading towards Norwood on 145, continuing to Naturita on highway 90/46 towards La Sal Junction. This is a breathtaking and scenic route with barely a car to pass. Once this road ends, you will find yourself turning right to complete to loop to the red rock canyons of SE Utah. There are a number of other add ons, as well as weeks worth of activities in this region, to include the other National Parks in Utah, or even adding in the Grand Canyon and Sedona.
Happy to chat logistics around your trip length of choice, as well as best aiports to fly into, or if you decide to drive from your home. Contact me HERE.
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